- Tasting mit Bettina Rogosky

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BerlinKitchen
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Erstellt am: 09.01.2010 : 12:04:58 Uhr

Gestern nachmittag traf ich Bettina Rogosky vom toskanischen Weingut "Il Carnasciale" in Berlin und im Gepäck hatte sie ihren Kultwein IL CABERLOT. Gleichzeitig war ich noch in Undercover-Mission unterwegs und spielte Geburtshelfer für eine große Il Caberlot-Vertikale im Süden Deutschlands. Frau Rogosky wird fehlende Flaschen für diese Vertikale beisteuern und auch eventuell daran teilnehmen.

Bottled exclusively in magnum.

Il Caberlot and its fascinating story doesn’t end with its scarcity and desirability. It, and its second label Carnasciale, are the only wines in the world made from a mysterious clone discovered four decades ago near Verona. Named “Caberlot,” the grape has characteristics of both Cabernet and Merlot—hence its name.

„Caberlot’s discoverer—agronomist Remigio Bordini— has allowed the vine to be planted just one place outside his nursery: at Wolf and Bettina Rogosky’s Tuscan estate, Il Carnasciale. The vineyard lies atop a rocky, south-facing bluff that towers above Tuscany’s Arno river. Famed enologist Vittorio Fiore discovered this providential site in 1986.
To limit yields, Fiore advised the Rogoskys to plant at a then-revolutionary 10,000 vines per hectare and to prune to a mere five clusters per plant. As if to presage Il Caberlot’s future, the Rogoskys buried a bottle of Sassicaia under the first vine.

From the first vintage, 1988, Il Caberlot has been a huge cult wine in Europe, its scarcity driven by nature and the vineyard’s size of less than an acre. Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but Bettina has carried on the work with her winemaker, Peter Schilling. With time, more vines have been planted, but production remains miniscule. The wine is still bottled by hand, and is held for two years before release. Bettina Rogosky hand-numbers each label. A second wine, made from younger vines and named “Carnasciale,” was introduced in 2000.“ Rare Wine&Co

"Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot...The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum." A. Galloni/WA

2005 Il Carnasciale "Il Caberlot", Toskana

A beauty!

Bezaubernder Duft von Himbeere und rote Johannisbeere. Präsentiert sich ungemein elegant mit Klarheit&Präzision und einer Aromatik von Himbeeren, roten Johannisbeeren und Kräuter. So wunderbar betörend und dazu eine faszinierende Tiefe &BALANCE. Kein Wein der sich an einen ranschmeißt, eher ein Wein für Finessen&Eleganz-Trinker. Ein Mitverkoster der eher auf Wuchtbrummen steht, konnte mit dem Wein nichts anfangen, sein Kommentar „mir fehlt der Druck“.

Klar, der Wein ist noch in einem sehr jugendlichen Stadium, aber da ich schon vor 1-2 Jahren einen grandiosen 92er verkostet habe, kenne ich das herausragende Alterungspotential von IL CABERLOT.

92-93+

P.S. 06 Il Carnasciale war ebenfalls große Klasse!